Apologies for the lack of posting. I’ve been hit hard by something that isn’t quite the flu, and certainly isn’t H1N1, but is one of the worst colds that I’ve had in a very long time. Not as bad as that thing that hit me in Columbus, Georgia, back in 2002, but bad.
Anyway, before I get down to business, let me talk about recreation. You can’t visit Caracas and not go to baseball game, especially if the Magallanes are in town. Leones’ fans hate the Magallanes, which means that there was no way that I was gonna say no when Francisco Sanánez, the head of Venezuela’s IESA business school, invited me to the game.
It’s a surprisingly small stadium, maybe 16,000 seats. In fact, it’s a university ballpark, rather than a true professional stadium. Nothing like the Foro Sol in Mexico, not even as big as the old Seguro Social. That said, the streets around the park manage to be so badly designed that resulting traffic jams make you feel like you’re headed to a much larger forum. The wandering mobs wearing Leones and Magallanes colors add to that feeling.
I couldn’t bring myself to tell my hosts that the raucous atmosphere inside the ballpark really wasn’t all that out-of-line with what you’d find in Yankee Stadium. The cops ejected somebody from the bleachers, but that happens in the Bronx with some regularity. The outside was lined with more and less-formal food and clothing stands than you’d find in the States (or even, as may surprise you, Mexico City) but still, nothing to write home about.
This is not to say that the atmosphere is the same as at home. Oh no. This is Venezuela, my friends. First sign of that happens before the game, where these pneumatic women in very tight jeans stand around flanking home plate. They’re the Magallanes cheerleaders, who won’t cheer; their job is simply to intimidate the opposition fans. And they do that quite well.
Of course, the home team also has its cheerleaders, who come out about three times over the course of the game. Does anyone remember the XFL? They’re like that. Mexican professional ball games also feature cheerleaders, but they’re wholesome in comparison. These, well, could probably get you arrested in some states, although I’m told from that the scenes in those cheerleading movies that I will never ever admit to having seen are about as risqué.






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